Saturday, October 23, 2010
부전여전
Friday, October 22, 2010
Like father, like daughter
"Come on, let’s not fight and just enjoy the trip."
That’s what I said as I picked up my sister and her husband in the car at 6 a.m.
"You’re becoming more and more like Dad. You even talk like him!" my sister replied.
Every time I visit Korea, our father insists on taking my sister and me on a trip.
"From now on, I’ll pay for everything. Eat whatever you want. Just don’t fight, and enjoy yourselves."
But no matter how well it starts, small arguments always seem to creep in.
Our father, who had only one son and not a particularly accomplished one, always gets gloomy when his son comes up in conversation.
He always makes these little jabs, even about his grandson. Then he turns to my sister again:
"This old father takes you on trips and feeds you good food, but you’re out there making money and giving it all to God. How about giving just one-tenth of that effort to me?"
Even my patient sister can’t hold back when it comes to religion. She starts to reply, “And what about you—” but bites her tongue and holds it in.
My sister, who’s short in height, married in a hurry right after college. Despite our father’s strong opposition, her husband was tall and handsome. Thankfully, her kids inherited their dad’s height and good looks. But because of that opposition, our father always seemed a bit cold about it.
“What good is being tall? All you do is strain your neck looking up,” he would mutter.
All of us siblings eventually moved to the U.S. As the eldest daughter, my sister had felt it was her duty to stay behind until our father passed, but in doing so, she lost her younger years.
Stronger and healthier than any of us, our father finally told her,
“Honestly, you’d be helping me more by going to a better country like America and living well. So just go.”
His words hit like a knife—and she finally left Korea.
She’s older than me, but when it comes to life in America, I’m the older one. When she first arrived, she’d ask me for help constantly, and though I usually didn’t mind, on tough days I’d lose my temper.
“Sis, you’re always going to early morning prayer—where’s your God now? Why are you clinging to me all the time? Go pray to Him for help!”
And she would say, almost crying,
“You really do sound just like Dad.”
Then I’d feel bad.
“Okay, okay… I get it.”
She had left Korea to escape Dad’s harsh words—only to run into me. I felt sorry for her and helped, but truthfully, I’ve inherited Dad’s sharp tongue. She suffered from my outbursts, and I suffered from helping her get settled. Still, I’m glad she’s here. She reminds me of Mom.
The food she makes tastes just like Mom’s. No matter how much I snap or throw a tantrum, she puts up with me—just like Mom did.
When we look up together at the quiet country sky, stars pour down like they’re welcoming us.
Maybe by taking my sister on this trip, I can truly say I’m sorry for everything.
Saturday, August 28, 2010
천국보다 낯설은 이스탄불
마침내 터키의 도시 이스탄불에 도착해 호텔을 찾아가는 길, 저 멀리 바닷가에 로맨틱한 식당들이 눈에 띄었다. 호텔에 짐을 풀고 식당을 찾아 바닷가 쪽으로 꺾어 걸었다. 번화가에 그 많던 상가들이 멀어지며 좁은 골목이 미로처럼 얽혀져 바닷가로 이어졌다. 분비던 관광객의 모습은 점점 사라지고 두 방향으로 갈라지는 후미진 골목에 다다랐다.
Friday, August 27, 2010
Istanbul, stranger than heaven
“Spain? Turkey?”
Every time I felt the urge to escape somewhere, Istanbul was the first city that came to mind.
But somehow, I always ended up choosing other places instead.
Finally, I arrived in Istanbul, Turkey. On the way to the hotel, I noticed some romantic restaurants by the sea. After dropping off my luggage, I headed out in search of one. As I walked, the busy shopping area faded, replaced by a maze of narrow alleys leading toward the water. Tourists disappeared, and soon I found myself in a quiet, unfamiliar backstreet split into two paths.
Mesmerized by the city I had long dreamed of, I didn’t realize someone had been following me. A face I had passed several times reappeared. That’s when I knew something was wrong. A group of teenage boys—likely Kurdish—started to close in on me. It was already too late. I felt someone’s breath behind me. At the same time, my bag was yanked.
I was pulled back and spun to the side. A large, dark hand grabbed my bag and tugged hard. I instinctively held on to the strap, but I couldn’t overpower the teenager’s strength and fell forward.
Still gripping the bag, I was dragged across the cobblestone ground until the strap finally snapped. Though it happened in seconds, it felt like forever. I heard voices around me, but no one stepped in to help—only watched. The boy, victorious, looked back with a mocking grin before disappearing into the distance.
I tried to get up, but my body wouldn’t move. I lay in the middle of the alley in shock. The onlookers scattered, glancing at me as they left. It felt like the entire crowd was in on it. Anger boiled inside me.
As I slowly came to my senses, pain radiated from my knee. It was bleeding, my whole body bruised and sore. My legs were so swollen I couldn’t fit into my pants. I couldn’t bend my knees or even walk.
It was early January, and Istanbul was bitterly cold. During the holiday, people slaughtered sheep, and blood spilled out onto the streets. The metallic smell, the brutality—it all disgusted me. I had planned to continue my trip to Greece after Turkey, but that now seemed impossible.
Because government offices were closed for the holiday, I was stuck in Turkey until they reopened and I could replace my passport.
I rested my head on a pillow by the hotel window. Outside, people in fresh clothes hurried by, carrying boxes of baklava, celebrating and returning home smiling. Every morning at 6 a.m., the Islamic prayer call rang out through the city, but in my ears, it sounded like a cry of rage. It woke me from my shallow sleep.
I turned on the TV and flipped through channels until a Korean drama called “Hae-shin” appeared. Lying in bed watching it reminded me of a friend who had once visited New York from Paris. Instead of sightseeing, he stayed in and binge-watched a Korean drama, “Damo,” before flying back. Back then, I had thought, “How pathetic.”
Now I realized—I was the pathetic one.
Saturday, August 7, 2010
7월의 고국여행
Friday, August 6, 2010
A trip homeland in July
Whenever I missed home, I longed for the comfort of sitting at a street food stall with a shot of soju—everything felt better after that. Then suddenly, a reason came up to go to Seoul. Even if there hadn’t been one, I might have invented one just to visit Korea.
When I checked for hotels, there were no rooms available in mid-July. It was peak season, and trying to book just two days in advance didn’t help. Still, it was the country I once lived in—so I just got on a plane without a real plan.
With no hotel booked, I took the airport bus toward Jongno. First stop: the haejangguk (hangover soup) restaurant in Cheongjin-dong. I ordered the special soup and a bottle of soju. Drinking soju early in the quiet morning, I could feel the cheap airline food being pushed out of my system as the warmth spread through my body. Yesterday I was scrambling in New York, and now I was stretched out in a completely different world. And I liked it.
A little tipsy, I wandered the streets of Jongno. As I walked, I passed the YMCA building I used to visit during my university days. Most of the streets had changed so much that I couldn’t ecognize anything—but that dusty glass facade of the YMCA building looked just the same, like it had been waiting for me all this time. On a whim, I walked in and found out there was a hotel on the 8th floor. They had rooms—and even gave me a 20% discount. After years of cooking every day, this felt like a perfect excuse to enjoy meals made by someone else. Luckily, the alleys around Insadong were full of restaurants. It was a great first morning.
The next day, I ran an errand in Dongbu Ichon-dong and sat at a shaded bus stop waiting for a ride to Yongsan Station. The cicadas were deafening, pouring down their song from the trees.
It reminded me of lying on a wooden floor in the countryside as a kid, staring up at the bright orange persimmons hanging in the backyard tree. I tilted my head way back, lost in thought, gazing up through the leaves—so much so, I didn’t even notice three or four buses pass by.
From Yongsan, I took the high-speed train and arrived in Mokpo in just three hours. Sitting at a pavilion in Dalseong Park, I looked down at the city and felt like I was taking in all of Korea at once. The breeze from every direction felt like the land itself was welcoming me home.
As I walked down past the rocky mountain of Nojeokbong, I passed a restaurant corner where a drunken man and a taxi driver were arguing. It started because the drunk wanted a U-turn, and the driver refused. The shouting turned physical and the two tumbled onto the road, arms flailing.
The confident taxi driver, thinking he could overpower a drunk, soon found himself struggling—and without anyone stepping in, the two simply made up. After brushing themselves off and yelling once more, they both got into the taxi and drove off—U-turn and all.
It was so anticlimactic. It felt like I’d sat down expecting to watch a thrilling episode of “Hell in Korea,” only for it to end in a quick truce. There was something sweet and raw in the way Koreans argue loudly but forgive easily.
I ended up taking a speedboat to Hongdo. Back in college, I once made it to Mokpo intending to go there, but a storm kept the boats grounded. I had always promised myself I’d return someday. The boat glided past islands floating like brushstrokes on water before arriving at the dock. Even before I got off, I caught a glimpse of the harbor—dark, messy, and oddly eerie, like something pulling me into a deep, shadowy lake.
The accommodations were poor. I understood that building hotels wasn’t allowed for environmental reasons. But still—couldn’t the residents at least clean up a bit? That thought once again made my throat ache with quiet frustration.
Down by the pier, I dipped a piece of sea squirt deep into red pepper sauce and looked out at the open sea. Chewing slowly, I took a shot of soju. And little by little, the untidiness of the island faded from view.
Saturday, July 17, 2010
전업작가, 꿈인가 현실인가?
“아줌마, 내가 여기까지 다시 오는데 얼마나 힘들었는지 아세요? 못 오는 줄 알았어요.”
친구의 어린아이가 가슴속에 오랫동안 품어온 비밀을 꺼내놓듯 내뱉은 말에, 마치 쇠몽둥이로 머리를 맞은 것처럼 온몸이 굳어버렸다. 친구는 직장 생활을 하며 아이를 키우기가 너무 힘들어 갓난아이를 한국으로 보냈었다. 그러다 몇 년 후 형편이 좀 나아지자 다시 데려온 참이었다. 그 아이가 우리 아이들과 공원에서 놀다가 재미가 없어졌는지, 내 옆에 슬그머니 앉아 한숨을 내쉬며 들려준 이야기였다. 나는 아무런 위로도 건네지 못한 채, 그저 멍하니 앉아 있을 수밖에 없었다.
남편은 1975년 LA로 이민을 와서 식당 주방 보조, 페인트칠, 신문사 광고부 일 등을 전전했다. 뉴욕으로 옮겨온 뒤에는 학교에 다니며 채소 가게, 옷가게, 가발 도매상에서 일하며 학업을 마쳤다. 결혼 후에도 행상, 옷가게, 목수 일, 신발가게 일까지 닥치는 대로 했다. 마지막으로 정착한 곳은 후배가 운영하는 램프 가게의 채색 작업이었다.
그 가게에서 남편은 처음엔 일주일에 닷새를 일했다. 그러다 사흘, 나흘로 점차 시간을 줄여나갔다. 지독한 중독자가 약을 조금씩 끊어가듯 하루하루 일을 줄이더니, 결국 일주일에 단 하루만 일하다가 마침내 그마저도 그만두었다.
지금 남편은 ‘풀타임 화가’다. 후배 가게에서 일을 조금씩 줄여나갈 때마다, 나는 불안해서 안절부절못하곤 했다. 형편은 나아지지 않고 아이들은 하루가 다르게 커가는데, 밥줄 같은 일손을 하루씩 놓아버리니 어찌 살란 말인가 싶었다. 하지만 다행히도 남편이 일손을 놓은 시간만큼 작업에 전념한 덕에 작품이 팔리기 시작했고, 일하지 못해 비어버린 생활비를 메울 수 있었다.
남편이 일을 줄여 살림이 팍팍해질 때마다, 나는 직장을 구해보려고 생활 정보지를 뒤적였다. “밖에 나가 일하지 말고, 작업하며 버텨내야 해. 그래야 우리 둘 다 전업 작가가 될 수 있어.” 신문을 뒤적이는 나를 못마땅하게 바라보며 남편이 지나가듯 내뱉은 그 말이 씨가 되었다.
이제는 우리 둘 다 꿈에 그리던 ‘풀타임 화가’가 되었다. 꿈인가, 현실인가. 혹시나 가난의 그림자가 다시 우리를 덮쳐오진 않을까 덜컥 불안해지다가도, 이것이 엄연한 현실임을 깨닫는 순간에는 기쁨인지 슬픔인지 모를 전율이 온몸으로 번져나간다.
“엄마, 우리가 돈 많이 아껴줬지요?” 아이들은 대단한 효자라도 된 양 생색을 내며 말한다. 그럴 때마다 나는 할 말을 잃고, 비디오를 되감듯 아득한 옛 생각에 잠기곤 한다. 아이들은 겨울마다 주말 새벽 6시에 무료 레슨을 해주는 루스벨트 아일랜드의 실내 테니스장을 다녔다. 수영은 시에서 운영하는 메트로폴리탄 수영장에서 배웠고, 음악은 학교 밴드부에서 해결했다. 제대로 된 새 옷 한번 입어보지 못하고 자란 아이들이다. 주로 얻어 입히거나 헌 옷가게에서 사다 입혔는데, 다행히 사내아이들이라 까다롭게 굴지 않았다. 형편이 풀린 지금도 아이들은 브루클린에 있는 헌 옷가게 ‘비컨스 클로짓(Beacon's Closet)’에서 옷을 사 입는다. 나름대로 구제 옷이 편하다며, ‘빈티지 룩’이라고 너스레를 떨면서 말이다.
남편이 하루하루 일을 줄이며 생활고에 시달릴 때마다, 나는 친구 아이의 한숨 섞인 낙서 같은 말을 마음속으로 수없이 되뇌었는지 모른다. 나 또한 언젠가 내 입으로 이렇게 말할 수 있는 날이 오기를 고대하면서 말이다.
“여기까지 오는데 얼마나 힘들었는지 몰라요!”



