Thursday, October 2, 2008
The end of a loan shark
Thursday, September 25, 2008
광장동(Grand Street)의 추억
아침이면 7층 바느질 공장으로 올라가는 낡고 비좁은 엘리베이터 안에서 중국 아줌마들의 요란한 수다 소리가 들려왔고, 나는 그 소리에 잠에서 깨곤 했습니다. 우리가 사는 2층을 지날 때 가장 우렁찼던 소리는 위층으로 올라갈수록 물속에 잠기듯 서서히 멀어져 갔고, 그러면 나는 다시 스르륵 잠이 들었습니다. 저녁이 되면 퇴근하는 아줌마들의 수다 소리가 다시금 위에서부터 지상으로 내려왔습니다. 2층 우리 집을 지날 때면 마치 폭풍이 스쳐 지나가듯 요란해졌는데, 그때쯤이면 나도 하던 일을 멈추고 그 소리에 합류하듯 저녁 찬거리를 사러 차이나타운으로 나서곤 했습니다.
이 낡은 건물로 이사 오기 전까지, 우리 부부는 시청에서 결혼 선서만 마친 채 따로 떨어져 지냈습니다. 남편은 남편의 룸메이트와, 나는 나의 룸메이트와 각각 퀸스에서 살고 있었지요. 소호가 지금처럼 번화하기 전, 뉴욕시 문화국(DCLA)에서는 예술가들이 맨해튼 소호(SoHo)와 노호(NoHo) 지역 내의 빈 창고를 주거 겸 작업 공간으로 사용할 수 있도록 '예술가 인증(Artist Certification)'을 발급해 주었습니다. 남편도 1982년에 이 인증을 받아 룸메이트와 함께 거대한 창고 건물 안에서 작업하며 생활하고 있었습니다. 하지만 변변한 직업이 없던 가난한 화가 부부에게는 함께 살 집을 구할 형편이 되지 않았기에, 결혼 후에도 한동안은 결혼 전처럼 따로 살 수밖에 없었습니다.
그렇게 6개월쯤 지났을 때, 남편의 룸메이트가 그랜드 스트리트에서 셋이 함께 살자고 제안해 왔습니다. 천장이 높은 커다란 작업실을 반으로 나누어 한쪽은 룸메이트가, 다른 한쪽은 우리 부부가 쓰기로 했습니다. 각자의 공간에서 나무 계단을 타고 올라가면 아담한 침실이 나오는 구조였습니다. 우리 침실 구석에는 이전에 살던 사람이 두고 간 드럼과 북 같은 타악기들이 잔뜩 쌓여 있었습니다. 밤마다 악기 더미 곁에 누워 있노라면, 마치 떠돌이 곡마단 단원이 순회공연을 마치고 피로에 지쳐 천막 구석에 몸을 뉘어 쉬는 듯한 기분에 젖어 들곤 했습니다. ‘이 방황은 언제쯤 끝이 날까? 끝나지 않는다면 내 삶은 어떻게 되는 걸까?’ 덜컥 화가와 결혼한 것이 후회되기도 하던 밤이었습니다.
한 달 집세 천 달러 중 우리 부부가 육백 달러를, 룸메이트가 사백 달러를 냈습니다. 우리 침실 아래층이 바로 부엌이었는데, 벽 한구퉁이에 달력을 걸어놓고 장을 볼 때마다 쓴 액수를 적어 두었다가 달이 끝나면 정확히 셋으로 나누어 계산했습니다. 집세와 생활비를 정산할 때마다 우리 셋은 ‘이 생활을 과연 얼마나 더 버틸 수 있을까’ 하는 서글픈 미소를 서로 교환하곤 했습니다. 난방 시설이 전혀 없던 그 넓은 공간에서 맞이하는 겨울은 혹독했습니다. 추위가 닥칠 때면 시베리아 벌판을 헤매던 영화 속 닥터 지바고가 순간순간 떠올랐습니다. ‘내가 주인공 라라만큼 미인이었다면 지금쯤 어디에 있을까?’ 그런 엉뚱한 상상을 하며 매서운 추위를 견뎠습니다. 게다가 건물은 노후해서 쥐와 벌레가 들끓었습니다. 나는 밤마다 온몸 구석구석을 긁다가 지쳐 잠이 들었는데, 남편은 그 모습이 안쓰러웠는지 침대에 흰 종이를 깔고 천장을 툭툭 두드려 가며 떨어지는 벌레들을 잡아주곤 했습니다.
우리 먹고살기도 팍팍한 형편이었는데, 이상하게도 오다가다 들르는 친구들은 왜 그리도 많았는지 모릅니다. 친구들은 스튜디오 한가운데 놓인, 때에 찌든 커다란 회색 소파에 번갈아 누워 자고 놀며 수시로 들락거렸습니다. 서울에서 와서 살 곳을 찾을 때까지 몇 달씩 머무는 지인들도 있었습니다. 사람들은 우리 스튜디오를 그랜드 스트리트에 있다고 해서 ‘광장교회’라 불렀습니다. 내 남편은 ‘이 목사’, 우리 룸메이트는 ‘황 장로’라는 별명도 얻었습니다. 연말이 되면 친구들은 아예 우리 스튜디오로 퇴근했다가 이튿날 그곳에서 출근하곤 했습니다. 그나마 이류 대학을 나와 기가 죽어 있던 우리 처지와 달리, 서울대를 나온 황 장로는 동문회 송년 파티에 갔다가 먹다 남은 양념 불고기를 커다란 플라스틱 버킷 가득 싸 오기도 했습니다. 식탁 위에 그 불고기와 김치 한 병만 올리면 우리는 세상 부러울 것이 없이 행복했습니다. 더러운 것도, 시끄러운 것도 전혀 문제가 되지 않았습니다. 그 수많은 친구들이 수시로 드나드는 것이 그 시절에는 왜 그리 힘들지 않았을까요? 지금 돌이켜보면 그 당시 나는 내가 아닌, 전혀 다른 사람의 삶을 살았던 것만 같습니다.
건물 주인은 어두컴컴한 지하실에서 콩나물을 키워 파는 노인이었습니다. 한 달에 한 번 집세를 내러 지하실에 갈 때면 사방이 너무 어두워 큰 소리로 주인을 불러야만 했습니다. 그러면 저 멀리서 장화 신은 발소리가 저벅저벅 들려오며 노인이 얼굴을 내밀었습니다. 내가 "어르신, 너무 어둡지 않으세요?" 하고 물으면, 그는 "밝으면 콩나물이 너무 빨리 자라서 곤란해" 하고 툭 던지듯 말했습니다. 그러고는 집세를 받고 나면 인심 쓰듯 콩나물을 서너 움큼 넉넉하게 싸주곤 했습니다. 집세를 내고 나면 주머니에 땡전 한 푼 남지 않던 시절이었기에, 우리는 그가 준 콩나물로 국을 끓이고, 나물을 무치고, 밥을 지어 먹으며 콩나물에 파묻혀 지냈습니다. 그러면서도 끝내 붓을 놓지 않고 버텼습니다.
이제 다시 찬 바람이 불어오니, 그때 그 소파에 기대어 함께 웃었던 그 친구들이 몹시도 그리워집니다.
Wednesday, September 24, 2008
Memories of Grand Street
When the cold wind blows, my mind naturally wanders back to those days and that place. A very long time ago, I lived on the second floor of a seven-story building on Grand Street, near Manhattan's Chinatown.
Every morning, I was woken up by the loud chattering of Chinese women riding the old, cramped elevator up to the garment factory on the seventh floor. The noise was loudest as it passed our second-floor home, but it would softly fade away as the elevator moved higher, like sinking into water. Then, I would drift back to sleep. In the evening, the chatter of the women heading home would come down from above. As they passed our floor, the noise was so loud it felt like a storm passing by. Around that time, I would stop whatever I was doing and head out to Chinatown to buy ingredients for dinner, as if joining in on their lively energy.
Before moving into this old building, my husband and I lived apart, even after making our marriage vows at City Hall. He lived in Queens with his roommate, and I lived in Queens with mine. Long before SoHo became the trendy neighborhood it is today, the New York City Department of Cultural Affairs issued "Artist Certifications." This allowed artists to live and work in the empty warehouses of the SoHo and NoHo areas (known as Joint Live-Work Quarters for Artists). My husband had received this certification in 1982 and was living and working with his roommate inside a giant warehouse building. However, as a poor artist couple without steady jobs, we couldn't afford a place to live together. So, we had no choice but to keep living separately, just as we did before marriage.
After about six months, my husband's roommate suggested that the three of us live together on Grand Street. It was a huge studio with a high ceiling; the roommate took one side, and we took the other. From our respective spaces, wooden stairs led up to cozy loft bedrooms. In the corner of our bedroom, there was a pile of percussion instruments—like drums and tambourines—left behind by the previous tenant. Lying down next to that pile of instruments every night, I felt like a weary member of a traveling circus, resting in the corner of a tent after a long tour. “When will this wandering life ever end? If it never ends, what will become of my life?” On those nights, I sometimes found myself regretting marrying an artist.
Out of the $1,000 monthly rent, my husband and I paid $600, and the roommate paid $400. Our kitchen was located right below our bedroom. We hung a calendar on the corner wall, and every time we went grocery shopping, we wrote down the amount spent. At the end of the month, we split the total exactly three ways. Every time we calculated the rent and groceries, the three of us would exchange bittersweet smiles, wondering, “How much longer can we survive like this?” The winters were brutal in that vast space with absolutely no heating. When the freezing cold hit, I often thought of Doctor Zhivago wandering through the Siberian wilderness. “If I were as beautiful as Lara, the main character, where would I be right now?” I shivered in the cold while getting lost in such silly daydreams. To make matters worse, the building was so old that it crawled with mice and bugs. Every night, I would scratch myself all over until I fell asleep from exhaustion. Seeing how miserable I was, my husband would place white paper on the bed and gently tap the ceiling to catch the bugs as they fell.
Even though we could barely feed ourselves, I don't know why so many friends kept dropping by. They would take turns sleeping and hanging out on the large, stained gray sofa in the middle of the studio. Some acquaintances from Seoul even stayed with us for months until they found a place to live. People started calling our studio the "Square Church" because it was located on Grand Street. They nicknamed my husband "Pastor Lee" and our roommate "Elder Hwang." Around the holidays, our friends would practically move in, coming straight to our studio after work and leaving from there the next morning. Unlike my husband and me, who felt a bit discouraged because we graduated from second-tier universities, Elder Hwang had graduated from the prestigious Seoul National University. One night, he came back from his alumni year-end party carrying a large plastic bucket filled with leftover marinated bulgogi. With just that beef and a jar of kimchi on the table, we were the happiest people in the world. The dirtiness and the noise didn't matter at all. Why didn't it feel hard back then, with friends constantly coming and going? Looking back now, it feels as though I was living someone else's life during those days.
The building landlord was an old man who grew and sold bean sprouts in the dark basement. Once a month, when I went down to the basement to pay the rent, it was so dark that I had to call out for him at the top of my lungs. Then, from the darkness, I would hear the heavy thud-thud of his rubber boots, and the old man would appear. When I asked, "Sir, isn't it too dark down here?" he would bluntly reply, "If it's bright, the bean sprouts grow too fast, and that’s no good." After taking the rent money, he would generously wrap up three or four large handfuls of bean sprouts for me. After paying rent, we didn't have a single penny left in our pockets, so we lived on those bean sprouts—making bean sprout soup, bean sprout side dishes, and bean sprout rice. Even while buried in bean sprouts, we stubbornly held onto our brushes and kept painting.
Now that the cold wind is blowing again, I deeply miss those friends who used to lean against that old sofa and laugh together.
Thursday, September 18, 2008
AC로 가는 버스
Wednesday, September 17, 2008
A bus to AC
There’s an Asian woman I sometimes see on the streets of my neighborhood, where there aren’t many Asians. She has big eyes and darker skin, so I knew she wasn’t Korean. One day, she spoke to me first, and we became friends. She told me she was an immigrant from the Philippines. Her husband is Polish, and they have two daughters.
She is very smart—her husband doesn't speak English well, but she can speak Polish to him. Their story is quite interesting. When she first arrived in the U.S. to work as a nurse, she met her husband while standing in line at immigration. They fell in love and got married just two weeks later.
She worked as a nurse and helped with her husband's construction business. When the business became successful, she stopped working and became a housewife. They own two buildings in our neighborhood, and also have villas in Florida and Colorado.
One day, I was walking around and saw a photo of her building at a real estate office. It was up for sale. I got worried—had she lost her property to gambling? I tried calling her, but she didn’t answer. Then, I saw her on the street. She looked poor and tired, wearing worn-out clothes and a hat pulled low over her face. She was walking with a cane. I wondered—did she lose everything to gambling?
I remembered a story I read in a magazine. It was about a mother who lost all her money gambling. Her daughter took her in, letting her stay in her home. But the mother kept disappearing. The daughter found her sitting at a bus stop, staring blankly. It was the bus stop for Atlantic City.
Now, whenever I think of my Filipino friend, I picture that woman at the bus stop in Atlantic City. I don’t know why—but I just do.
Thursday, September 11, 2008
내 별명은 '캐시 부인'
야자수가 빙 둘린 뒤뜰, 따듯한 햇볕 아래 누워 있었다. 뉴욕에서 전화가 왔다. 위층에 사는 아기 엄마다. 우리 집에 도둑이 들었단다.
난 누가 뭐래도 가벼운 캐쉬가 좋다. 그 좋은 캐쉬를 가지려면 열심히 돈을 벌어야 한다. 그러나 돈 벌 재주는 없다. 그나마 물건을 사지 않으니 돈이 조금씩 모이는 재미에 빠져 산다.
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